As the landlord of one of the busiest pubs in London, The Devonshire, Oisin Rogers is extremely well-placed to suggest great places to eat and drink in Soho. The fact that he lives and works in the area makes him a great guide to the area's old school gems.
Eat Tokyo
16 Old Compton St, London W1D 4TL
Open late, totally unfussy, and always reliable — Eat Tokyo’s been feeding hospitality folk for years. I go for a spicy tuna tamaki or two, and the sashimi boat can't be beaten. It’s not trying to be flash; it’s just good, and perfunctory, and a real gem.
Bar Bruno
101 Wardour St, London W1F 0UG
A proper Soho café which famously opens at 4am. Great for watching the walks of shame collide with the focused creative early risers — tiled walls, laminated menus, mugs of tea, generous full English with chips served with cheeky smiles and camaraderie. It’s been there forever and hopefully never changes. Ideal when you want to line your stomach or reset your day.
Andrew Edmunds
46 Lexington St, London W1F 0LP
One of the last real gems in Soho. Intimate, candlelit, a brilliant, affordable eclectic wine list, and food that’s always far better than you'd expect it to be. It’s the kind of place that feels special without trying unduly to impress you.
Randall & Aubin
16 Brewer St, London W1F 0SQ
A restaurant you'll have forgotten was there, go when you want oysters and Champagne and don’t care what time it is. It’s got that lively, slightly chaotic charm that makes you want to stay longer than you planned. A Soho institution where once again the cooking headed up by Ed Bains is unexpectedly exceptional.
Honourable mentions
Bocca di Lupo for perfect Italian counter dining. Koya when I want something warm and brothy (try the breakfast). Dean Street Townhouse for mince and potatoes or the best eggs Benedict in Soho for breakfast. Bonjour Bon Appetit for a perfect, quick handmade sandwich on the go, Kiln for big flavours from extraordinary produce with added theatrical fire cooking. Mountain for super professional, new and excellent Basque cooking. And Trisha’s for... well, where you can hide late and everything else.
For more of these local area guides, visit the My Manor page.
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